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Korean Exfoliants: AHA, BHA, PHA and LHA Explained for Buyers

K-Beauty

Korean chemical exfoliants tend to be gentler than their US counterparts, formulated at lower percentages with more soothing ingredients alongside. That is a feature if your skin is reactive and a frustration if you are used to strong US acid toners.

What each acid does

AHA, usually glycolic or lactic, works on the surface and helps with texture and tone. BHA, salicylic acid, is oil-soluble and gets into pores. PHA has a larger molecule and penetrates less, making it the gentlest option. LHA is a lipophilic variant of salicylic acid found in a growing number of Korean formulas.

Typical Korean percentages

Korean toners and serums usually land at 2-5% AHA and 0.5-2% BHA, notably lower than the 7-10% AHA products common in the US. Pads soaked in exfoliating solution, sold in tubs of 60-70 at 15,000-25,000 KRW, are the format Korea does best and are hard to find at that price elsewhere.

Reading the label

Korean product pages list percentages inconsistently. If a figure is absent, look for the acid's position in the ingredient list. An acid appearing after the preservatives is present at a trace level and is there for the label, not for the effect.

Combining with the rest of a routine

Alternate acid nights with retinoid nights rather than stacking them. Korean routines typically use exfoliating pads two or three evenings a week and keep the rest of the routine simple on those nights.

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Frequently asked

Are Korean acids too weak to work?

They are lower percentage but often used more frequently. For most people the outcome over a month is comparable with less irritation.

Do exfoliating pad tubs leak?

The tubs are sealed but the lid can pop under pressure. Ask for them to be taped and bagged.

Can I use acids with sunscreen?

You should. Exfoliated skin is more sun-sensitive, which is one reason Korean routines treat daily sunscreen as non-negotiable.

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